He’s young, good-looking and extremely wealthy. He’s fluent in six languages and the very definition of cosmopolitan, having been born in New York, raised in Brazil, educated in England and France, and now once again living in Gotham. He’s the scion of Italy’s preeminent family (the Agnellis, not the Mafia), and is quintessentially Italian. Style and fashion are in his blood, thanks to his aunt Diane von Furstenberg. He’s linked with sleek cars and even sleeker women. Perennially named to the world’s best-dressed lists, he’s officially a GQ style icon.
But that’s not why Dandyism.net has chosen Lapo Edouard Elkann its first-ever Dandy of the Year.
D.net salutes Elkann because this year he returned from exile. All good dandies must go into exile, either to escape gambling debts or arrest. Brummell and Jimmy Walker did it. Oscar Wilde did it, but too late. The Duke of Windsor did it, but for love. Celebrities and wannabes like Sebastian Horsley don’t go into exile, they merely go to rehab or jail or — worst of all — don’t go away at all.
In 2005, Elkann left his job as Fiat’s head of worldwide brand promotions and retired from the public eye. In 2007 he returned in a carefully choreographed public-relations campaign that nicely coincided with the launch of his latest venture, high-priced Italian sunglasses.
But more impressive is why Elkann went into exile in the first place.
One of Fiat’s two largest shareholders, the paramour of Italian starlet Martina Stella, the handsome face of the revival of the Fiat brand, and the hero of world fashion press, Elkann almost tossed it all away with a near-fatal overdose of cocaine and heroin downed with an alcoholic chaser while partying with Patrizia, a fifty-four year old transsexual hooker, plus two of her business associates, at her apartment in what passes for Turin’s red-light district.
Elkann’s irresponsibility, even if he were desperate for Laposuction, ranks right up there with abdicating the throne for a mannish double divorcé, and dashing your literary career by dallying with rent-boys while you have two smash plays on the boards.
Of course screwing up magnificently doesn’t make a dandy. A dandy must also have elegance and the proper demeanor, and Elkann fits the bill on both counts.
He looks like a dandy should. The 30-year-old’s personal style is eclectic. One day he will be precisely dressed in a blue double-breasted suit, spread-collar white shirt, solid tie and puffed pocket square, or a navy blazer and stripped pants with red socks and brown shoes. On the next, he’ll wear a bold-check suit with scarf, or he’ll spice up one of the impeccably cut suits he inherited from nonno Gianni Agnelli by wearing sneakers with no socks. For daywear he quirkily favors tuxedo jackets in bold and unlikely checks. He’s commissioned a Mediterranean-blue suit from the prestigious Rome tailoring house of Caraceni, executed to his specifications, accented by grosgrain lapels with the proportions of a 1959 Cadillac’s tailfins and a built-in cummerbund waistband, which he’ll wear with velvet slippers.
And increasingly Elkann’s slim frame — the product of the gym, bicycling and skateboarding — will be clad in something creatively casual that discreetly exposes tufts of chest hair and several chains and pendants, such as a double-breasted tweed jacket with an unbuttoned lime shirt, or an unbuttoned pinstriped royal-blue Oxford shirt, with sleeves rolled up, tucked into a dark blue pair of trousers cinched, a la Astaire, with a rope. On his best days, he pulls off a brilliant combination of the classic and relaxed with such combinations as a linen pinstripe suit paired with a denim shirt, thereby achieving that elusive sprezzatura.
As for his lifestyle, Elkann pursues such dandy hobbies as chain smoking and drinking a dozen espressos a day. He’s an accomplished sailor, winning the 2003 Fastnet trans-ocean sailboat race with his older, more responsible brother, aboard Stealth, their ultra-modern yacht. His preferred mode of transportation, when he isn’t forced to drive a Fiat-affiliate Maserati or Alfa Romeo, is a very fast, very big motorcycle.
Elkann is charming and social, though perhaps a bit voluble for a dandy. He exhibited a wry, self-deprecating humor by hanging in his studio a poster for “I Was a Man,” a film about a hermaphrodite that bears the tagline “The Body of a Man, The Feelings of a Woman.”
We especially admire Elkann’s dandyish sense of superiority. Although he made his mark as Fiat’s promotions manager by splashing the Fiat logo on everything from clothing and accessories to comestibles and potables, today he disdains such vulgar display — at least for himself. When it comes to his own clothing and accessories, Elkann says, “No logo, and you don’t advertise for anyone. I don’t believe in imposed luxury. I believe in built luxury. Something you refine with your own taste. Mass luxury is not my luxury.”
Lapo’s luxury makes him a dandy deluxe and has earned him D.net’s acclaim as 2007 Dandy of the Year.
RCH, You think too small. Chenners is being declared Dandy of the Year for Life.
Well, Bricology, at least he isn’t wearing the sort of plaid used-car salesman get-up and barbershop quartet ‘stache preferred your good pal, you-know-who.
See you in ‘Frisco soon, old boy.
Those who can’t handle criticism always make that same lame defense.
Andrea Sperelli forgot to mention Elkann’s Myspace profile. http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=32502368
Gentlemen, can we confine our name-calling to Lapo, please?
It was brilliant of me, wasn’t it?
I say, this has been very entertaining. I’ve been eating popcorn and watching the comments fly back and forth all night long.
Bricology,
I took a wonderful mulled wine recipe off your site, which I may cook up tomorrow to aid in defence of this cold Florida weather of late, so thanks. Now, as for Whimsy, I think the word “fêted” is hardly appropriate. Last I heard he was the guest speaker at the Corduroy Club and I doubt seriously that a film version of his life starring Johnny Depp will ever make it to actual production. Just my 2 cents for whatever that is worth…probably not even 2 cents.
I do agree that Lapo was not a very good choice and maybe G’s suggestion that people vote on a Dandy of the Year would be a better solution. Maybe just for fun, Whimsy could be one of the candidates? Again, just my 2 cents.
My, my! It seems I was the only one who spent the evening out, for a change.
Bric: The most telling quote in all of your windy diatribes last evening begins: “In a sub-subculture as small as this…”
Subculture? What? Dandyism is not now nor has ever been a subculture. Once someone has been identified as member of a subculture he must cease all claims on dandyism. It is an entirely individual exercise. It’s clear that you just plain don’t get it, and at its most fundamental level.
As to quals, well, if we’re so unqualified, why are you so offended, and why are you bothering with the all the wind? (Doesn’t your “sour grapes” reasoning work a bit like that?)
And by the way, other successful people whose dandyism I have criticized on this site include: Oscar Wilde, James Abbot McNeil Whistler, Lucious Beebe, The Marchesa Casati, Quentin Crisp (“…charming though he was, the man looked like a grandmother playing the nickel slots in Vegas…”), McDermott & McGough, Andre Benjamin, Derek Watkins and Patrick MacDonald. Rest assured, my friend, I do not want to live the lives of any of these people any more than I do Lord Whimsy’s or yours.
Lastly, there are plenty of photographs of yours truly in the forum section of this site. Heck, there’s even one of me in shirtless, wearing leiderhosen and holding shotgun at Burning Man. I posted it myself. The New Edwardian can point you to them to you to enjoy. I think it’s fun to look back on them. If you want to see recent photo, feel free to drop by http://www.travelswest.com and scroll down a bit. Enjoy and see you in ‘Frisco.
Chenners: Boy’s got some writing style but good God, the wind! You’d have to do quite a bit of editing.
Cher Bricology,
I’ll be sure to let you know how the mulled wine turns out. I’m actually quite excited to make some since Florida is hardly the environment for mulled wine, so I’m taking advantage of this cold snap to enjoy such things. I’m even wearing my tweed jacket.
As for Whimsy, may I say it is most admirable your defense of him. He is obviously a friend of yours, or at least someone you like, so good for you. I’m not ignorant to what he does, but to me, speeches at the Corduroy club or some antique shop just don’t equate to be fêted by the world. I’m sure he is a nice guy and as far as I know the dandyism.net website had no problem with him dressing as he does, but when he began to proclaim himself a modern dandy people here questioned that. I believe it was that questioning by people here which made him recant the notion that he is a dandy since he no longer claims to be so. I believe that if you are going to put yourself out in the public and claim to be a dandy than you may face some scrutiny. Dandyism.net is hardly an unfair website. Just the fact that your comments are posted here should tell you that. The forum itself may be full of like-minded individuals, but is always open to debate. You are always welcome to join us in the forum and I hope you do. Again just my 2 cents and the opinion of a lowly forum member.
I’ll let you know how the mulled wine turned out.
Cheers,
New Edwardian
“Un-dandyish” is the ultimate accusation in Dandyland. We use it all the time.
Execellent point, Trad. I admit to being among the chief offenders.
M wrote,
“Lastly, there are plenty of photographs of yours truly in the forum section of this site. Heck, there’s even one of me in shirtless, wearing leiderhosen and holding shotgun at Burning Man. I posted it myself. The New Edwardian can point you to them to you to enjoy. I think it’s fun to look back on them. If you want to see recent photo, feel free to drop by http://www.travelswest.com and scroll down a bit. Enjoy and see you in ‘Frisco.”
Me? Why Me? I think you may believe that I know Mr. Bricology. True I’ve seen said photos and I did enjoy them as much as you enjoyed the one of me from a shaggy hair days, but sorry I couldn’t tell Mr. Bricology where to find them now-a-days. My favorite was the one in which you were actually elegantly attired and flipping off the camera man – classic & dandyish.
As for Lapo, M, you make a valid point in that he isn’t the end all, be all of dandyism, but only this year’s choice. Dandyism.net could have done far worse. At least one good thing is that I believe this story generated a great deal of interest and comments.
Laguna Beach Trad, good point also.
*Me? Why Me?*
Only because you once gathered all the really bad photos of me and put them all together in one Forum post. Wasn’t that you?
“Only because you once gathered all the really bad photos of me and put them all together in one Forum post. Wasn’t that you?”
Oh yeah, but that was after you were making fun of my drunken photo I posted. Remember I had a tart upon my lap, a libation in my hand and curse of all curses, my shirt was untucked? After you gave me a hard time for posting that photo I had to show you some of the photos you posted, which we equally as bad as my own. No hard feelings I hope. I have no idea where that posting is now or how to direct anyone to it, so sorry M, I’m afraid I can’t help. Perhaps it only goes to show that while many of strive for dandy perfection we are all only human after all including Mr. Lapo.
Lapo is not human, he is an extraterrestrial intelligence.
“Ah yes — the questioning of those who would like to claim that they do not need any qualifications, and who do not consider dandyism to be a subculture. So…the point of “questioning†his qualifications as a dandy was predicated upon what — a whim? I mean no offense, but I really haven’t managed to see the sense behind this equation: (1) We (the members of D.net) do not need qualifications with which to critique, and (2) Dandyism does not constitute a subculture, yet (3) we can make pronouncements upon those who are unqualified to be called “dandiesâ€, and who may legitimately be included within that nonexistent subculture. This is madness. Well, perhaps not madness, but at least cognitive dissonance.”
I think you may be making it a bit more complicated than it is. Whimsy, in my humble opinion could never be a dandy simple because he is an object of ridicule in the way he dresses and the jester-like manner in which he carries himself. He acts more clownish than ever a refined man of taste. All of which is fine by me, but when he began to preach to the world that he was a dandy I had to shake my head. A dandy should never be ridicules and Whimsy’s attire was at times quite so. You don’t have to read too much Baudelaire to see he misses the mark. He obviously felt the same because after receiving criticism, from this forum & elsewhere, he ceased to call himself a dandy. I believe even you; a defender of his would be hard pressed to assert Whimsy as a true dandy although it is a rather moot point these days since he no longer claims to be such. I have no other problem with him personally and I even purchased his book although I must confess that I was disappointed with it. I suppose if you are graphics designer it is a nice book, but other than that there wasn’t much substance.
By the way, I made your mulled wine recipe tonight, which pleased a few friends to no end. However, one thing, what in the world is a green cardamom pods? I asked my grocer, but he is a refugee from Venezuela, so obvious he hadn’t a clue.
I more or less agree with what you say of Whimsy although never a dandy Whimsy will be in my book.
“And D.net — the self-proclaimed High Church of Dandyism â„¢, with its aspirationally-authorotative judgments about what and who is and isn’t – is just as doctrinaire and exclusionary as any priesthood, and just as delusional as to its supposed authority. Oh, it’s all tarted up by a sham humility to sell it to the slower readers, but the pretense is there, within every phrase. Behind every “IMHO†lurks a “we knowâ€. High Priest Chensvold didn’t invent dandyism any more than did Beau Brummel, nor is it anyone’s trademark. There were no criteria handed down from the cloud, nor is there an International Court of Dandy Affairs. In that vacuum, it seems preposterous for anyone to claim that anyone else is or isn’t a dandy.”
I think again you are reading far too much into D.net’s function. Do we judge people who claim to be dandies, sure we do. Why? Because everyone here is interested in all things dandy. All we are is a group of like-minded people who enjoy discussing such things. We can be as critical of Whimsy’s claim to dandyism as you and Andrea Sperelli have been against Lapo’s selection of Dandy of the Year. You clearly have sat in judgment of Lapo and yet you appear to look down when D.net does the same. D.net has just as much right as you to past judgment and perhaps more since it is now the number one site for dandyism on Google. What would give you the ability to judge Lapo, but to deny that same right to people who discuss dandyism on a daily basis here and have done so for years? I’m no defender of Chensvold and in fact he will probably tell you that he doesn’t much care for me however, he has never been anything but fair in his running of this website. Your opinions are posted here for the world to see and rightly so. You make assertions about dandyism and even D.net which should be debated. From what I can see that is what D.net is all about. It is to discuss dandyism past, present, and future. We enjoy discussing all sides to the philosophy and as I said before you should come into our forum and join us. No one here shies away from dissenting opinion and in fact we enjoy it. You really should vent your spleen in the forum where you will hear more opinions regarding a subject that clearly you have an interest in. Here on this comment page you are only hearing a few opinions. D.net is a good place to discuss dandyism, and why it has become perhaps an important site for dandyism on the web today.
Thanks for the info on the cardamom pods. Florida has returned to warmth again, but perhaps the next cold snap I’ll try it out although I’m thinking a hot toddy for next time.
I haven’t read through all of your pages, so I can’t say what the commenters are like there, but if many of them on this page are retro-eccentric, that may just be response bias: those most upset over the choice will be most likely to leave a comment.
Cher Brocology,
I hate to point it out yet again, but what you appear to have a problem with is D.net making “pronouncements from above” yet with every stroke of your keyboard that is what I’m reading from you. It began with your rejection of Lapo as a dandy and then moved into criticizing D.net. Then you end by actually telling us who is and isn’t a dandy. I can’t help but to find this logic a little bit confusing. I think you are an intelligent person, or so you sound to be, but to criticize D.net for doing what you seem to do seems rather hypocritical. At least D.net consists of a good size forum which includes a few academics and people with qualified backgrounds from LA to London, to Sydney and points in between. Regardless of that, nearly every forum I’ve been on debated the merits of some fact or another. D.net is just like many other forums where people come to give and hear opinions of those interested in Dandyism. The opinions regarding Whimsy were from a great many people who are only associated with D.net via their forum, but whose opinions are their own. I can’t help but to find it quite humorous that you say Whimsy is a dandy, but Lapo isn’t, and then to try and lambaste D.net for criticizing Whimsy. Don’t you see the hypocrisy in your own statements?
You should also read more of M’s writings since they are quite well done. He is very well read on the subject of dandyism, an expert even, and has contributed for years to this site and in the forum. I can’t help but to wonder if your opinion is as qualified as M’s. Can you direct me to any of your writing?
I believe that you either missed or are ignoring my point. I wasn’t trying to establish who is more dandy, Lapo or Whimsy, but only wished to point out to you that you are guilty of what you are criticizing D.net for and that is sitting in judgment of who is or isn’t a dandy. I’m afraid you can’t have it both ways, so if you are going to keep writing that Lapo isn’t a dandy than why can’t I or whomever say what we wish regarding someone like Whimsy, or others. I have no issue with you criticizing Lapo and in fact I agree that he wasn’t a very good choice, but I do have issue with your assertion that D.net is somehow wrong to make the same judgments which you appear to make. I disagree that you are more qualified than anyone at D.net to make such judgments, and I disagree that Whimsy didn’t deserve the criticism he received here at D.net. Most criticism here is based on the opinion of the forum which is a consensus of opinion from people who are well versed with regards to dandyism. There are a wide variety of people in the forum here from distinguished professors, to tailors, to students, to entrepreneurs, to journalists, and so on and so on.
Now, just for the sake of Quid pro Quo, “Does this look like a dandy to you?” http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2376/2174696721_9761fcbca6_o.jpg , Is this a dandy or a pimp? http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2103/2175500584_69d4d137b1_o.jpg .
“M: what would the purpose of having a drink together? If you find my opinions disagreeable on the page, surely you’d find them more so in person.”
It’s my sporting nature. You give me a righteous hard time and I invite you for a drink. I’d certainly rather share a drink with someone I disagree with than some slavish little yes man. Come on. It’ll be a lark.
“Mr. Chensvold — claiming that your website’s assertions were all “elaborate rouses†is neither convincing nor particularly clever. It certainly doesn’t encourage anyone to take your current professions of disagreement seriously. So, you now expect us to believe that the twelve “qualities that comprise the anatomy of the dandy†were a pointless confection, and far from the truth, eh?”
Maybe you should have read the last line from his “Anatomy of the Dandy.”
“For in the end there is not a code of dandyism, as Barbey writes. “If there were, anybody could be a dandy.†Get it???
As to what you wrote in response to me, I’ll let you have the last word and we must simply agree to disagree.
I am a native. I worked at Enrico’s, was friendly with Herb Caen and an investor in Cafe du Nord. Ever go to the Ellington Supper Club Wednesday nights at Cafe du Nord? That was my show.
Anyway, I always thought “‘Frisco” was charming and used it when I wanted to tweak the nose of some City snob. I think you know what I mean. Caen, who wrote a book called “Don’t Call in ‘Frisco,” even came around to it in the end.
But never mind. How does Bourbon & Branch (I know Todd Smith, one of the owners), Thursday January 17 sound? I should be settled in by then. I can meet you there and afterward you can take me home on your scooter. I’ll ride bitch.
Just being your rapier wit.
Bricology…
So you’re a dandy, and you live in the S.F.area? Come out and play! http://www.peers.org http://www.gaskellball.com .
Despite your tendency for long, rambling, self important posts, we might get along. I would be curious to meet you, and happy to have another dandy to chat with. You’ll recognize me, look for another dandy ;-]
G~ wrote “So you’re a dandy, and you live in the S.F.area? Come out and play! http://www.peers.org http://www.gaskellball.com .”
We’ll have to see. I admire the Gaskell scene and have friends who have been in and out of it over the years, but my era of interest is the mid-20th century (‘twixt Swing and Disco), so I’m not sure how much I could get into earlier styles. But I thank you for the invitation, and will consider it.
“Despite your tendency for long, rambling, self important posts, we might get along.”
You must’ve missed Anatomy of the Dandy Rule #13: “Persuasion — A dandy will spare no words in order to make his point be known to all. ‘The critic has to educate the public; the artist has to educate the critic.‘ –Oscar Wilde”
I’m not sure I agree with your choice. Lapo is the BFF of an artist friend of mine and every time I see him, he looks a bit disheveled. Maybe it’s because all the time he spends downtown or maybe the equally dishelveled artist has rubbed off on him. Whatever the reason, he needs a haircut and a mirror nowadays.
Lapo clearly has far more money than taste. An excellent choice.
“He’s fluent in six languages” … but ITALIAN! really awful. and laughable.
What real dandy would even read this drivel without vomiting?
This thread has provided me a chuckle of the month. Exactly what we need: thrusts, parries and ripostes.
I know I’m a few years late to this party. But I met Lapo in Paris a few weeks ago and found him to be completely charming. I think the young should be allowed the stylistic transgressions of youth. I think being found in a coma with a trannie is about the most glamorous thing in the world, but that’s just me.
I like that he turned his life around, and is an active participant in a huge, and profitable business, not just a parasite sucking money from his family. I don’t share his style, it’s a bit flashy for me, but I appreciate it. It’s fun, and embodies the color, energy and exuberance of Italy. I think Dandyism implies a splash of vulgarity to cleanse the palette, and jolt the eye into seeing something new. And I suspect a lot of a lot of these “dandies” have a stick up their asses. We’re not curing cancer darlings. Lighten up!